Thursday, 25 February 2016

STYLE

Having thought about my make-up and hair looks, I wanted to start looking at styling to incorporate the clothing into my looks, thinking about how they would work hand in hand.

This image of Givenchy's Spring/Summer Editorial campaign shows a similar style to what I would like for my model's in both my Catwalk and Editorial looks.



You can see in both of these images the fabrics silk and lace are repetitively utilised with the focus in the top image on the face with the hair pulled back with what looks like golden halos on the model's heads. The second image is taken from a different perspective, the angle of the models is almost heavenly with them looking down at us the viewer with an angel-like quality. 
My editorial shoot will very much be similar to these shoots with a strong sense of togetherness and group power. I'm so in love with the feeling injected into these shoots by Riccardo Tisci. 


"Everyone can do something very small, some gesture of love. I'm not saying this will change the world, but the world will be better. I'm a big believer in positive energy, and I'm sure this energy will spread," Tisci said about integrating the positive concept of love into everyday life. 


The structured jacket in this piece from Givenchy's 
Haute Couture Spring/Summer collection from 2010
has detail on the back that I would like to incorporate 
into my lace headress and I'd like to find a dress that 
has elegant lace with a structured lace sleeve.







Nina and Inspirasi, W. (2015) ‘Wedding Inspirasi’, Available at: http://www.weddinginspirasi.com/2010/07/12/givenchy-fall-winter-2010-2011-haute-couture-collection/ (Accessed: 25 February 2016).



This high neck lace top is something I'm thinking about as it would work really nicely with the mask and feathers that I will be using along with this slinky black dress that could also be used for my editorial shoot.

 Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/6e/18/cd/6e18cd0e257b2bedc4147b878ab8ad51.jpg (Accessed: 25 February 2016).

Elie Saab haute couture fall 2012 collection (2012) 5 July. Available at: http://stylerumor.com/blog/2012/07/05/elie-saab-haute-couture-fall-2012-collection/ (Accessed: 25 February 2016).



Givenchy used a leather, lace up sling back pointy heel for his catwalk looks which look very victorian and had a vintage style to them with lace a main feature also. I think I'll use a slinky shoe with a thin heel and maybe a point but I think something quite simple would work not to take away from the makeup and clothing. 

Designers Givenchy shoes at Neiman Marcus (no date) Available at: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/en-gb/Givenchy/Shoes/cat50640744/c.cat (Accessed: 25 February 2016).






Catwalk Couture



ON AURA VU HAUTE COUTURE 2014 SPRING/SUMMER


On Aura tout vu haute couture are known for their outlandish haute couture pieces with a focus on attention to detail. Lots of embellishments are used in every aspect of their looks, with a strong focus on the shoulders in most of their past collections.

I found this image from their spring summer haute couture collection 2014 and I thought it tied in nicely with my ideas for my evening catwalk look. My plan is to make a piece fitting around the bottom half of my model's face just over the lips and down onto the neck to symbolise the preservation of your identity.

This piece will be highly embellished to maintain the Givenchy catwalk tradition in which Pat Mcgrath creates stunning stand out looks on a few models.


ON AURA TOUT VU HAUTE COUTURE 2014 SPRING/SUMMER - VERTIGO (2014) Available at: http://vertigomag.co.uk/hautecouture/aura-tout-vu-haute-couture-2014-springsummer (Accessed: 25 February 2016)

Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Couture Masks

Recently I started following a page on instagram called 'CoutureMasks' based in Los Angeles. This was unbelievable inspiration for me as it relates directly to my design ideas for my catwalk looks.

Below are some of the images shared on their instagram:





My original idea was to use a lace coif idea on the head coming down into a sort of V shape onto the head. Now looking at these designs for my second night look I really love to recreate it but using diamantes and dark silver maybe across the mouth using the small metal rings stuck onto the hair that will be tied up in a slick low braided ponytail.

- @couturemask (no date) Available at: http://www.couturemask.com/couturemask/ (Accessed: 24 February 2016).

Tuesday, 23 February 2016

Past and Present

Looking into what looks I'd like to do for my catwalk looks, I've thought about incorporating different cultures into my work to carry on the vision of Ricardo Tisci with the feeling of love and religion; but above all that the collection was about coming together and that love is love and we are all in this together.

Looking at past spring summer collections and looks I found a page online 'Miss Whirlwind' that looked back also over past collections and found really amazing similarities between the spring summer 2016 and previous collections. So it seems he brought back his favorites, updated and tweaked them for 2016. He also brought back some of his favorite models which I thought was a nice touch.

Here are some images from the similarities and they're uncanny!


Givenchy Spring 2010 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Fall 2010 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Fall 2007 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Fall 2010 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Fall 2011 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Spring 2012 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Fall 2011 Haute Couture; Spring 2016


Givenchy Fall 2009 Haute Couture; Spring 2016

All of these looks have been recreated and they all exude a sense of culture, style and elegance. 
I've decided to incorporate these old designs aswell as the newer reworked designs and take inspiration from these to form my new looks. 

For my first day look I'm using an angelic theme, making a lace type coif headress (knight chainlink styled) that will come down onto the face into a V shape incorporating diamante's and crystals. This is to symbolize protecting the mind from outside negativity and to reinforce the lace and design on Givenchy's new spring summer collection along with an overly dewy, angelic skin. I was imagining putting a lace design on the hands and maybe the feet aswell, in everything we do in life when we use our hands and our feet we must do so with love and purity and this would reiterate this for me as I feel like fashion and makeup should be influential and should make an impact on people.

For my evening look I'm thinking to use small dark silver circles on a wet look hair coming onto the face also, this was inspired by Ricardo Tisci's jewelery choice on some of his models in his ready to wear pieces. The models wore large circles around their neck which shouted out to me as a sign of unity and I'd like this to be the main feature for this look. The wet look hair was influenced by current trends for 2016, I may incorporate a braid somewhere but we'll see when it comes to my design process!

All Images:

mswhirlwind_editor (2015) #NYFW’s most Tweeted-About shows and models. Available at: http://misswhirlwind.com/2015/09/14/givenchys-spring-2016-clothes-are-the-ultimate-throwback/ (Accessed: 23 February 2016).



Thursday, 18 February 2016

Top 5 Trends for Spring/Summer '16

We all follow trends, whether we know it or not. Trends set by the fashion shows in London, Milan and NYC set the trends for the upcoming months and they filter down through instagram and we see them appearing with upcoming fashion trends too. Sometimes trends reappear (as they do) but often we see them used in new and inventive ways on the runway. I've looked at the trends and Vogue
website has summed up the top 10 beauty and hair trends for this spring summer 2016 and I've chosen my top 5.

1. Red or Nude?

Victoria Beckham, Oscar De la Renta, DKNY and Zac Posen all sent their models with red lips and nude lips out on the runway. The red lips of Oscar De La Renta were quite worn played down lips, whereas the nudes were very bare in comparison. As were the reds worn in the DKNY show, the reds popped more with more of a blue tone showing through, one of my favorite lipstick shades!


 

2. Cropped Haircuts

Instead of seeing lushious long locks were seeing cropped choppy cuts for this spring/summer. Designers such as Alexander Wang cut lengths of a few model's to make a choppy buzzcut; models such as Ruth Bell and Isabella Emmack also sported a boylike cropped hairstyle. I'm actually really loving these hairstyles at the moment, but not too sure if I'd take the plunge!


                                                                                                                 

3. All About the Skin

Isabel Marant showed off fresh faced models using Sarah Chapman's skinesis line along with Mac Strobe cream creating this illuminated natural glow shown here on the gorgeous Imman Hammam.

I'm all about the glowy fresh skin at the moment, my favourite mix being Mac Face and Body Foundation mixed with a little strobe cream for that natural glow. This look has been so popular and I think we'll be seeing this in years to come as a reoccurring trend.








               

               Jonathan Saunders

   
4. Blue

 I've seen alot of blue making its way onto catwalks AGAIN for this year.

The image above is a model for Jonathan Saunders wearing a blue liner hugged around the eye coming to a point in the tearduct. Marc Jacobs, Hugo Boss, Missoni and Chanel also used blue around the eye (this was my favourite blue look this season). This trend comes back every spring and it never gets old!

       



   







5. Braid It

Braids are coming back but not necessarily pretty girly braids, the braids seen on this spring summer's catwalks are harder and stronger with a clear indication to female empowerment. Proenza Shouler showed this with a secure ponytail tightly plaited at the back of the head, simple but effective. 

Valentino also used braids in the form of cornrows which were then pinned and wound round into buns at the back of the models head. As did Celine with plaits falling down the models backs. 


Image Reference:

Niven, L. (2015) The debate: Team red or team nude?. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1469264 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Tunell, A., Staff, H.B., Broekema, S. and Pieri, K. (2015) The best makeup trends for spring 2016. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g6416/spring-2016-makeup-trends/?slide=3 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015) The revelation: The killer cut. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1464835 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

wagoner, mackenzie (2015) The 9 top beauty trends of the spring 2016 shows. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13359453/top-beauty-trends-spring-2016-fashion-week/ (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015) The backstage tip: Put skin First (or use MAC strobe cream). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1495559 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015) The Colour: Blue-eyed girl. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1478177 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Bridget (2015) Stunning spring/summer 2016 beauty trends. Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=2 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015) The Hairstyle: Tough-girl braids. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1471178 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).



Wednesday, 17 February 2016

Sassy Brows

Brows are an area of much needed attention these days with so much attention being payed to them on catwalks and just in everyday life. But brows don't always have to look neat to look nice. We saw this on the catwalk for spring/summer '16 with quite alot of designers with tamed neat natural brows bushy brushed out brows being a trend.

Isabel Marant S/S


Chloe S/S


Christopher Kane S/S


A common thread seems to be tamed but bushy brow and we experimented with this on our models.

We were asked to create 3 looks on our model, one set of brows that our models would normally wear and prefer after an investigation, one set of brows that we think our model should have and one set of spring summer brows.

For my model she preferred really defined brows cleaned up with concealer, quite an instagram brow. This is what I came up with,,,


The next look was a look I thought was best for my model so I did neat sharp brows similar really to what my model wanted but with no concealer.


The last look was a spring summer inspired look with fluffy brushed up brows.



Here is my next model:

For her preferred look she quite liked an arched brow but nothing too heavy or defined.




The look I thought my model should have was quite defined to change it up a bit...


For the last look this was my spring summer inspired look with a fluffed up brow:



This exercise helped realize that everyone's brows are different and that there are so many different shapes you can create that entirely change the shape of the face.  




Monday, 15 February 2016

Hubert De Givenchy.. The Birthplace Of Givenchy

Hubert De Givenchy was and still is a visionary in the world of fashion. Born in the French city of Beauvais in 1927, he lived with his mother father and brother but was later cared for by his mother and grandmother when his father later passed away. At the age of 17 he then moved to Paris where he studied at 'Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts and after careful consideration as he originally wanted to follow a career path towards law he placed his feet firmly on the ground and decided to go forward into the fashion world. 

He began in an apprenticeship role for Jacques Fath and after this experience later went out to work for couture houses such as Lucien Lelong, Elsa Schiparelli and Robert Piguet. 

Givenchy established his house in 1952 and released his line with his very famous 'Bettina Blouse' as one of his pieces, this was named after the model at the time Bettina Graziani and soon Givenchy became a couture house known for it's Parisian chic sense of style. Later in 1954 Givenchy became the first couturier to release a luxury ready to wear line.

Cristobal Balenciaga met Givenchy in 1953 a year after opening his fashion house and together they made the famous 'sack' silhouette not sinching anything in at the waistline keeping everything quite hidden and secretive which differed from the style popular at that time, 

Audrey Hepburn was also a great friend of Givenchy's. Givenchy had been asked to dress the star for the upcoming film she would star in - 'Sabrina' but as a misunderstanding he thought it was Katherine Hepburn and politely asked if she would like to have a look at some of last seasons pieces. From this moment on Audrey Hepburn would always wear Givenchy's pieces on screen and off with his work appearing in Funny Face (one of my favourite movies) Sabrina and Breakfast at Tiffany's - a classic. They became very close and Audrey Hepburn once said that 'only in Givenchy's pieces could she ever really feel like herself, he was a creator of personalities aswell as a designer'. He later released a perfume inspired by her called L'interdit for which she appeared in an advert for, one of the first advertising campaigns to feature an actress as the model. 

Givenchy later sold his company to Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy in 1988 and then later retired in 1995 and there on after designers such as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien Mcdonald and now to date Ricardo Tisci have creative innovative ideas in Givenchy's name for the world to see. 








Givenchy Ideas Presentation

Follow the Link below to see my full presentation:

https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1JPVwlOPKgi0St5WKUcgy3SKy8GnjYTBuVzWBF2YPH1Q/pub?start=false&loop=false&delayms=3000

Saturday, 13 February 2016

Contouring on a Budget

I think everyone can pretty much agree that contouring is here and here to stay. In the past two years there seems to have been a massive rise in popularity with the trend with celebrities and makeup guru's sharing their tips, some have become quite creative with it and I'm sure you've seen the clown or tiger inspired contoured looks going around; but how realistic are these looks to recreate? I personally am I lover of minimal contouring and going all out as if I were one of the original club kids rocking it in the 80's but what products will keep us looking contoured to the high heavens and how can we achieve these looks on a budget? I spoke to some of my fellow make-up students to find out their fix-up favorites that are within reach and still get that desired chiseled look we all want...


Sleek contouring pallete - £9

This pallet has great review and many of my friends use this, they've updated their range so there are more colours to choose from for your skin tone (finally!) but it's way within budget and works like a charm!


Bourjois delice de poudre bronzing and highlighting powder - £8


So.... these are newish from Bourjois as they've now got a highlight option and they've also brought out a darker shimmery bronzing powder as I don't think the other colours dark enough for deeper skintones.

Travel size Strobe Cream - £10


Strobing is such a trend right now and Mac's hero product 'Strobe Cream' has been a hit ever since Kylie Minogue had this glowy stuff rubbed on her butt in her video spinning around! You can buy the larger version but if you're working on a budget you can also buy the travel sized one for half the price which means you get the high end product without the high price!


Anastasia Beverley Hills Contour pallete - £38 or £45 for cream contour
This has been raved about for quite some time now and the powder version is cheaper, it depends what sort of look you want to go for; if you prefer a more natural look (although you can build these products) go for the powder and if you want to experiment and go all out grab the cream. These are a little more expensive however you do get all you need in these pallets so it depends on how much you have to spend.

NYX Wonderstick Highlight and Contour Stick - £9


This is a really cost effective contour tool, the texture is super thin however but in some ways I think this may be better as it is more easily blend-able and doesn't look to 'cakey'. However I do suggest, if you want more coverage under the eye to get a concealer with a heavier coverage as I said this is quite light in coverage!


LA Girl Pro Concealer, Highlight and Contour - £5 each


I've heard such good things about this concealer, super good coverage with colour correcting options if you suffer from redness or dark spots/circles. I've watched a few tutorials and reviews on these products and it looks like a good one to try as if you bought a set of two for concealing and correcting it wouln't break the bank!


NYX Cosmetics Conceal, Correct Contour Palette - £19-£20


I always prefer to use powders for contouring and highlighting so this product would be perfect for me, it has good reviews I think it depends what shades you want to use as this palette has both cool and warm shades with most of them being matte with only a few with shimmer. For the day though you should always stick to matte shades for contour as shimmery products will reflect light and matte ones will help to add that shadow you want.

To contour and highlight wit creams and powders:

Once you've got your desired products and tools to hand you'll need to make sure all the hair is off the face to ensure you have a nice and easy canvas to work on. 

Prime your face with the desired primer and your first step is to correct in any areas that need colour correcting for example any red areas or any dark circles or dark spots. You can do this for example with one of the correcting concealers shown above by NYX. 

Once everything is colour corrected take your foundation and apply evenly all over. 

Once you've got your base you'll need your cream concealer or cream contour palette to hand (you don't always have to do this step as this is for a more extreme contoured look but it's always handy to know!) take your lighter concealer shade that you wish to use, this will most likely be one to two shades lighter than your natural foundation shade to add a lifted look under the eye and towards the cheekbone. Once this is on, buff in with a damp beauty blender, making sure not to drag the product on the skin but to pat to ensure an even coverage. Obviously the under eye isn't the only area that needs highlighting so use this product down the centre of the nose if you want to, the centre of the forehead and chin if necessary. 

Now you'll start to see some sort of shape forming on the face, and this is where the contouring comes in. So contouring basically should be used in the areas that naturally fall under shadow in natural light (in the real world people!) so this is where the product needs to be added to look legit. The hollows of your cheekbone are a good place to start so place a small amount of your cream contour just where you can feel the hollow of your cheekbone; not too high or too low so make sure you're using a brush on the smaller side to ensure precise application (obviously a beauty blender works perfectly also). So now we've chiseled our cheekbones it's onto the forehead where needed so take a look at the shape of your face......where would you like there to be more shadow or depth? Mine for example is the corners of my forehead as I want them to appear a little further back, so I lightly sweep my cream contour onto these areas and buff it in leaving that lovely highlight we applied to the centre of the forehead free of contour. You can also contour the nose and chin if you feel you want to but for the nose make sure again you are using a nice fluffy brush that's a little smaller to make sure you draw a precise line evenly down the sides of the nose before you buff it in.

Now were onto the next stage....

Grab a translucent powder and lightly powder the areas we have contoured to set. I try and stay away from the highlighted areas so I don't make them look to muddy, some people like to 'bake' and this looks really good in pictures but to make sure we keep everything looking clean.
Using the powder contour use an angled or fluffy brush and go over your contour to darken and intensify (you can use a cool toned contour colour or warm depending on how warm you want your look). Next you can use a blusher and blend this into your contour to add some colour to the apple of the cheeks. Finally choose your highlight colour to sweep across the top of the cheekbone using a small fluffy brush as this picks up the product easier. This will add a shine to the cheekbone but keep the shimmer to a minimum depending on the time of day. You can set this with a translucent powder or light coverage powder to finish and spritz with a fix plus spray or finishing spray.





 As you can see the first three images are quite subtle contoured looks, but I've done a more intense version below on myself so it's really all just down to your taste and budget but either way these products are going to make those cheek bones pop girls!