Bibliography

Bibliography

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mswhirlwind _editor (2015) #NYFW’s most Tweeted-About shows and models. Available at: http://misswhirlwind.com/2015/09/14/givenchys-spring-2016-clothes-are-the-ultimate-throwback/ (Accessed: 23 February 2016).

Australia and Us, C. (2011) Dazed & Givenchy. Available at: http://wearehandsome.com/blog/dazed-givenchy/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Bridget (2015) Stunning spring/summer 2016 beauty trends. Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=2 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

com, S.S. (2013) GIVENCHY in interview September 2013 | magazine editorial - SPENTMYDOLLARS | fashion trends, shoes, bags, accessories for men & women. Available at: http://www.spentmydollars.com/2013/09/givenchy-in-interview-september-2013-magazine-editorial.html (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Designers Givenchy shoes at Neiman Marcus (no date) Available at: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/en-gb/Givenchy/Shoes/cat50640744/c.cat (Accessed: 25 February 2016).

Elie Saab haute couture fall 2012 collection (2012) 5 July. Available at: http://stylerumor.com/blog/2012/07/05/elie-saab-haute-couture-fall-2012-collection/ (Accessed: 25 February 2016).

Hicks, J. (2013) Photography tips: How to bounce light | model mayhem education Blog. Available at: http://www.modelmayhem.com/education/photography/5613-how-to-bounce-light (Accessed: 6 February 2016).

Home (2015) Campaigns. Available at: http://www.thefashionisto.com/gallery/givenchy-springsummer-2016-menswear-collection-paris-fashion-week/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

KTC, +s. (2014) Givenchy fall/winter 2014 ad campaign featuring Isabelle Huppert. Available at: http://www.spottedfashion.com/2014/07/21/givenchy-fallwinter-2014-ad-campaign-featuring-isabelle-huppert/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Moss, V. (2015) Riccardo Tisci celebrates 10 years at Givenchy with love, religion and a clan of celebrities. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/new-york-fashion-week/givenchy-spring-summer-2016-show/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Mull, A. (2015) ‘The best in spring 2015 handbag ad campaigns’,News, 10 March. Available at: http://www.purseblog.com/news/the-best-in-spring-2015-handbag-ad-campaigns/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Nina and Inspirasi, W. (2015) ‘Wedding Inspirasi’, Available at: http://www.weddinginspirasi.com/2010/07/12/givenchy-fall-winter-2010-2011-haute-couture-collection/ (Accessed: 25 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015a) The backstage tip: Put skin First (or use MAC strobe cream). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1495559 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015b) The Colour: Blue-eyed girl. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1478177 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015c) The debate: Team red or team nude? Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1469264 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015d) The Hairstyle: Tough-girl braids. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1471178 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

Niven, L. (2015e) The revelation: The killer cut. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/10/07/spring-summer-2016-beauty-trends---hair-makeup/gallery/1464835 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

ON AURA TOUT VU HAUTE COUTURE 2014 SPRING/SUMMER - VERTIGO (2014) Available at: http://vertigomag.co.uk/hautecouture/aura-tout-vu-haute-couture-2014-springsummer (Accessed: 25 February 2016).

Sekonic Flashmate L-308s - flash meter: Is it possible to achieve perfect photo exposure every time with this fairly budget digital light/flash meter? (no date) Available at: http://www.laymansreviews.com/review.php?id=29 (Accessed: 6 February 2016).

Socha, M. (2015) Givenchy advertising campaigns: A look back. Available at: http://wwd.com/media-news/media-features/givenchy-ad-campaigns-julia-roberts-donatella-versace-amanda-seyfried-riccardo-tisci-10299596/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Toni-Blaze (2016a) |Fashion| MFF magazine: Givenchy A/W12 editorial x Kanye west. Available at: http://theblumile.com/2012/02/25/fashion-mff-magazine-givenchy-aw12-editorial-x-kanye-west/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Toni-Blaze (2016b) |Fashion| MFF magazine: Givenchy A/W12 editorial x Kanye west. Available at: http://theblumile.com/2012/02/25/fashion-mff-magazine-givenchy-aw12-editorial-x-kanye-west/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

top, B. to (2011) ‘GIVENCHY PF12’, 16 August. Available at: http://fashiontographer.com/givenchy-pre-f12/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Tunell, A., Staff, H.B., Broekema, S. and Pieri, K. (2015) The best makeup trends for spring 2016. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g6416/spring-2016-makeup-trends/?slide=3 (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

wagoner, mackenzie (2015) The 9 top beauty trends of the spring 2016 shows. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13359453/top-beauty-trends-spring-2016-fashion-week/ (Accessed: 18 February 2016).

(No Date) Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/6e/18/cd/6e18cd0e257b2bedc4147b878ab8ad51.jpg (Accessed: 25 February 2016).

Peer Review of timed Assessment

On the day of my timed assessment my model let me down at the last minute the night before so I arranged to work with a classmate of mine and swapped to the next week. This worked in my favour as my end image that I eventually used for my final catwalk submission came out exactly how I wished it to. On the day of the assessment I arrived half an hour early to set up and using my classmate as my model I began working on my look. I had designed and made a lace head garment for my look that attached at the back with elastic covered my my models hair. My models clothes were covered and protected using a hairdressing cape and I communicated with her throughout the timed assessment, letting her know if I needed her to move, close eyes etc. When attaching the lace headdress (as my model was wearing a wig to add length as my hair design required it) I kindly asked her to assist by holding the lace piece forward whilst I adjusted it. Overall I would say given the fact that my original model pulled out at the last minute I handled the situation professionally and the outcome was better than I had hoped.

Brand Evaluation

Givenchy is widely recognised as a chic, sophisticated yet bold brand with the traditional colour pallete of white, black and nudes that have been reworked over the years keeping Givenchy's iconic vision alive. With many creative directors taking on the Givenchy name after the retirement of Hubert De Givenchy himself, the latest to become creative director is Riccardo Tisci and has been for over ten years. Riccardo Tisci has given new life to all things that Givenchy stands for with his collections embodying romance and elegance but also bringing in a new futuristic vibe to Givenchy with a wide use of metalled fabrics and bright hues can be seen from time to time.
Givenchy's catwalk shows have always been the topic of conversation as their innovative and courageous avant garde make-up looks are always pushing new boundaries with Pat Mcgrath being lead make-up artist for most of his shows. Their avant garde looks have become tradition with a heavy use of embellishments on the face to enhance their current collections, this year for Spring/Summer 2016 Tisci chose to use pearls and golden jewels and lace on the face to create the illusion of more light in keeping with their Spring Summer makeup collection and my chosen product of interest the 'poudre illumiere originelle'; an illuminating brightening powder.
Givenchy make-up was first launched with Givenchy Beaute in 1989 where the birth of the Givenchy Prisme concept was created, the signature 4 shade pallete which would go on to be used throughout Givenchy's make-up line. The Givenchy logo was created as a reflection of stability and solidarity and still remains to this day as one of the most important symbolic figures along with the circle in Givenchy's designs. In 2005 Givenchy's new 'Le make-up line' was launched and their packaging along with it, although still sleek and simplistic, with their new collections Givenchy incorporates intricate designs into their compact powders, exuding luxury almost as if it were a keep sake for their customer.
There has been speculation that Riccardo Tisci has taken the Givenchy brand too far from the house it once was back when it all started in 1952, with many saying that Tisci was too gothic for the Givenchy brand. Although it was said that Tisci's first collection was too gothic and dark and not the biggest of hits, he has gained credibility over the years inviting everyone into a new wave of neo-gothic romanticism. With his new collection I was surprised to find that the heavy use of lace was similar to Hubert De Givenchy's first design a white cotton blouse with flounced English lace sleeves back in 1952 and the heavy use of symbolism in the form of circles was used in his show and editorials. The circle was seen by Givenchy as a representation of stabilisation and the creative mind and in Tisci's recent shows could be seen as a symbol of love and togetherness.
This research into the beginning of Givenchy and its evolution was the most crucial when designing my looks and planning out my images. Givenchy's love for design, art and everything of beauty can still be seen through the brand today and my connection to their latest Spring Summer collection grew with the knowledge of its origin and ethos.

Final Images

Project Evaluation

My goal this term was to push myself technically and I also wanted to challenge myself on my organisational skills as this was a goal I had set last term. Starting off my project I at first found it difficult to get the ball rolling however after looking into the Givenchy brand I connected so much with its brand identity and style that I found myself thoroughly enjoying my work as it was being produced. One of my challenges along the way would definitely have to be scouting and securing models, a challenge I have come across many times these past two years; however to ensure I wouldn't have the same issue with unreliable models I made sure to have several stand ins just in case which worked in my favour. I did originally decide to have five models on my first editorial shoot but due to models dropping out I decided it would be a better decision to have only three (one male and two females). This was a quick decision on my part and I was happy at how I handled the situation and made a decision without panicking. I feel I have grown tremendously in confidence with my skill as a make-up artist and sourced the majority of my models from outside of University plucking up the courage to ask strangers which again worked in my favour. My most enjoyable aspect of the project was putting together a creative team to collaborate on my editorial shoots with me, I was able to direct a team of eight people to create an editorial that I envisioned and seeing it all come together made me realise how much I love creative directing.
I did however wish to create a short fashion film to go alongside my images on my blog but my videographer unfortunately couldn't make it on the day, but that is something I can later explore in my next project. The idea that Riccardo Tisci had with this Spring/Summer collection of love, and religion and the bringing together of everyone really resonated with me and I feel that has come across is my images through styling, make-up, location etc.
To conclude this has by far been my best unit on this course and I hope to grow further as I enter into my third year of study.

Technical Evaluation

I feel that my technical abilities have grown this term as I've set myself personal goals in the past to become more organised and manage my time for effectively and I honestly feel that I've done that. My skills as a hair stylist have come on from where I was at last term as I feel I have gained confidence and learnt new skills that I can take with me and practice. Through planning my shoots for the Beauty and the Brand project I have a real sense of how hard I can push myself as a makeup artist, not always going for the obvious and most of all having the confidence to do so. I've enjoyed this project the most and have learnt so much from all of the technical skills I've put into practice.

Selecting final images

This process is taking me longer than I would thought it would as I actually love my images but needed to choose the best ones to submit that show my idea consistently.
Here are my options for submission in each category.

Catwalk

Here are my two catwalk images for both my day and night inspired looks. As they're Givenchy I decided to live up to the name and make some 'out there' statement make-up and styling choices as this is what Givenchy are known for at their shows. I handmade both pieces that the models are wearing and thought they photographed really well!

Advertising (options)

I'm having trouble deciding between these three images, I'm definitely sure about the double spread but having a hard time choosing between the second black and white image and the coloured beauty advertisement.

I like how the coloured one captures my makeup look advertising the illuminating powder so that could work well against the black and white spread.

Editorial (options)

The reason I chose for so many of my images to be 
in black and white is because that's what Givenchy use most of the time for their ads and editorials however my first editorial really captured the overall feeling of religion, simplicity and light which was exactly my aim. Styling, make-up, hair was all done by me and two assistants who helped me out on the day with hair and makeup, with one of my handmade bralet pieces being worn by one of my models also on the right above. 

This was by far my favourite shoot of all, the weather was beautiful and I think all of the planning and scheduling paid off.

Givenchy's Make-up Line

Packaging

Givenchy's packaging is kept sleek and distinguishable but still keeps up with it's latest collections making small alterations here and their to the packaging with new launches to set these collections apart from others. The powders have a very unique embossed element to them that changes with collection also and gives Givenchy's customers a sense of luxury and that the item is almost a keep sake. The packaging for lipglosses, mascaras etc are kept quite sleek and simple too with their mascaras ball point wand setting them apart from other brands. All of the packaging features the Givenchy name or the Givenchy logo. Givenchy's latest collection - Les Saisons is black with a small amount of gold on the lid of their new bronzing powder with the Givenchy logo sat in the middle of the compact. The cream primers, bronzers and blushers in this collection all have a clear middle with a small amount of black in the right hand corner with the Givenchy logo appearing again.

Products

I found Givenchy's best selling beauty products on the Harrods website as Givenchy don't have this information on their website.

The first product that came up was the Tient Couture Fluid, a longwearing fluid foundation that can be built to your desired coverage giving you a natural glow.

Givenchy Noir Couture Mascara 

Volumizing, Curling, Lengthening mascara that defines your lashes, it has a really defined brush that grabs every lash making them big and bold.

Le Rouge Lipstick

Semi matte, long lasting lipstick with metal and leather packaging seen iconically in Givenchy's shows and comes in a range of 4 shades.

Presentation

Givenchy's presentation is very simplistic as thats how Riccardo Tisci and the founder Hubert De Givenchy likes to work. There counters are black and sleek with the givenchy name keeping everything looking professional with Givenchy's beauty consultants wearing all black also.

Price Point 

Givenchy's products are relatively more expensive than some high end brands but not extortionate. 

Foundations and powders - £34-36

Lipsticks - £24-26

Skincare - £30-£300

Eye products -  £25

Promotion

Givenchy promotes itself through releasing ad campaigns for their products aswell as using celebrity known faces to sell new collections. Givenchy do launch adverts on TV mainly for their fragrances but sometimes makeup and more interestingly a new advert has been released for Givenchy's makeup line.

RELIGION and idea of Symbolism

What drew me into choosing Givenchy as a brand was the meaning behind the creation, which was religion and love. As the Givenchy new york fashion show took place as the 14th year since 9/11 Riccardo said he wanted everyone all to come together and I really admired how this whole collection was created bearing that in mind.

'Tisci sent out his women (and men, clad in suits layered with silk tunics), in what he described backstage later as “a celebration of life, pure love, different religions and all people.” The collection was a culmination of his decade of work at the house, drawing together haute couture and ready-to-wear looks in one vision, for the most part in black or white.' - The Telegraph 

Moss, V. (2015) Riccardo Tisci celebrates 10 years at Givenchy with love, religion and a clan of celebrities. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/new-york-fashion-week/givenchy-spring-summer-2016-show/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

The religious aspect can be seen in Tisci's collection in the menswear particularly, but also in the womens haute couture and ready to wear with silks, lace and gold rings worn around the models necks. This kept reappearing throughout the show and caught my attention as a symbol of love and all in a sense being part of the same religion. 

The pieces were dainty yet striking on the female models with an angelic and luxurious touch with the use of lace and silk heavily used. The colours were kept to black and white with the exception of the silver rings worn around the models necks, which kept the collection very classy and extremely wearable.

Hubert de Givenchy believed that the number 4 (in the Givenchy logo) and the symbolism of the square represented stability and enduring quality aswell as the circle which can now be seen in this latest collection reinforcing Givenchy's ethos and brand identity.

'A veritable workaholic known for his unwavering loyalty to his friends, Hubert de Givenchy could not have chosen a better number to represent his personality. The square is one of the fundamental symbolic figures in design, along with the circle. It represents stabilisation in perfection and symbolises all creative activity in the realm of time and space.' Givenchybeauty.com the history

The history (no date) Available at: https://www.givenchybeauty.com/en/history (Accessed: 25 April 2016).

Posing Inspiration for my Editorial no.2

Givenchy like to use big groups of models for their editorials and go all out into making us believe something special is going on that we need to be a part of. So I decided to use more than one model for my first editorial shoot which proved to be (with a few hiccups) a big success. So this time around I still wanted to use more than one model, however incorporate Givenchy's casual wear that they've released alongside their latest menswear collection which consists of the religious printed jumpers, long oversized t-shirts etc that are being worn by both men and women.

I love how the religious theme is being played with in prints aswell and I can really see what Riccardo Tisci's idea was.

I also looked into locations and PROPS used for Givenchy's editorials and came across a few interesting images involving sports for the more ready to wear collections. I thought using props was a good idea as I've seen it reappearing time and time again.

The location plays a big part in the storyline behind the editorial with most of my inspired images being set in recreational sports facilities I thought this was really interesting as sports is a well loved activity and on the uprise in recent years with sports clothing becoming a current trend.

When looking for locations for this I wanted to find a sports based location but figured I would use a prop and find a textured background that would add to the grittiness of the picture that I wanted as my other editorial images were on a more 'heavenly vibe'. And as I am embodying this theme of religion throughout my shoots I thought this was only right to show the two sides of this collection.

This was a picture I found by Givenchy in interview magazine in 2013 and used as inspiration for my location, I loved how urban the background looks and achieved something similar in my final images.

Home (2015) Campaigns. Available at: http://www.thefashionisto.com/gallery/givenchy-springsummer-2016-menswear-collection-paris-fashion-week/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Toni-Blaze (2016b) |Fashion| MFF magazine: Givenchy A/W12 editorial x Kanye west. Available at: http://theblumile.com/2012/02/25/fashion-mff-magazine-givenchy-aw12-editorial-x-kanye-west/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Australia and Us, C. (2011) Dazed & Givenchy. Available at: http://wearehandsome.com/blog/dazed-givenchy/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

com, S.S. (2013) GIVENCHY in interview September 2013 | magazine editorial - SPENTMYDOLLARS | fashion trends, shoes, bags, accessories for men & women. Available at: http://www.spentmydollars.com/2013/09/givenchy-in-interview-september-2013-magazine-editorial.html (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

The Givenchy Way and my Advertising images

When researching for posing for my shoots I decided to look at how Givenchy embodies the brand through how the models are positioned. I found that most of the advertising images had the models in poses involving their hands, touching the face, body or above the head. The images that inspired me the most were the pictures I found of Julia Roberts and Erykah Badu in particular. Most of the poses used for these shoots involved the hands and I can see similarities in my own work with my model Wura.

 I really love this image on the right aswell as this was the image I used for lighting inspiration, the skin looks very matte which is an ongoing theme for my look the image's offset is turned up slightly so the blacks in the image look more of a dark grey colour.

Below is one of my final images for my advertising campaign as a double page spread, I was really pleased with how the images came out and feel that I embodied the Givenchy way of posing and lighting in their black and white images.

Mull, A. (2015) ‘The best in spring 2015 handbag ad campaigns’, News, 10 March. Available at: http://www.purseblog.com/news/the-best-in-spring-2015-handbag-ad-campaigns/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

KTC, +s. (2014) Givenchy fall/winter 2014 ad campaign featuring Isabelle Huppert. Available at: http://www.spottedfashion.com/2014/07/21/givenchy-fallwinter-2014-ad-campaign-featuring-isabelle-huppert/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Socha, M. (2015) Givenchy advertising campaigns: A look back. Available at: http://wwd.com/media-news/media-features/givenchy-ad-campaigns-julia-roberts-donatella-versace-amanda-seyfried-riccardo-tisci-10299596/ (Accessed: 24 April 2016).

Glitch Art and Givenchy

Looking into Givenchy's Editorial and Ad campaigns I came across some really interesting images using a sort of glitch art with the text and the image itself.

I've used split screen in my previous work last term in my fashion film and am extremely interested in how split screen is used in the media. Givenchy used split screen in their 2013 Fall Winter campaign and also again in their 2009 campaign so I thought I'd give it a go with one of my edits.

I did this edit with one of the other make-up students and it was difficult at first as we had to line up all of the 'slices' of the image and then line up the Givenchy sign with its sliced sections so the image lay true underneath to the original. (if that makes sense). But I'm really happy with the outcome and I think it adds something different to my series of images.

Finger Waves

You will need:

Gel, mousse, or hairspray
Sectioning clips
Pintail comb
paddle brush
Curling tongs
hair grips

1. Apply gel to the hair that is to be styled.
2. Section off the front of the hair from ear to ear.
3. Using your pintail comb brush the hair forward onto the face then using your finger hold the hair at a point onto the head using the comb to guide the hair left out backwards onto the head creating an S shape and pin into place using either a sectioning clip or finger wave clip.
4. Continue this working in lines down the front of the head and then when you get to the back make sure the S shapes fit together so you don't get lines or gaps in the hair.
5. Allow to cool and set and then remove the grips and you should have your desired finger wave pattern.

 

If you want to create a tighter finger wave, make the S shape closer together, so leave around 2 inches and you'll have a more compact finger wave.

Another way to create finger waves is to use a curling wand.

1. Working in the same sections curl the hair away from the head (going under) and allow the curl to sit before removing the barrel.
2. Pin into place and work from the parting to the ear and the same on the other side.
3. Once cool, remove grips and use paddle brush to tame and shape the hair into a wave S shape, using hairspray if needed to finish.

Editorial Shoot

So the day of my big editorial shoot finally came and with a few bumps in the road turned out to be a massive success! With two of my models cancelling last minute I was left with three models (1 male and 2 female) to work with. It was disappointing as I had planned my shoot for 5 people and had bought and provided styling for 5 people however I decided to roll with it and the shoot was my best one to date! The weather gave us a massive helping hand we were able to keep to shcedule as one of my models had to leave a little earlier but we managed to to get all the shots we needed before 2 o'clock.


The team that I put together were a huge help and I really enjoyed working with a big group of people, the organisational part of the shoot was one of my favourite parts although it was stressful with such a large group of people I feel that it gave me new skills that I can take forward when taking part or planning future shoots.

Overall I am extremely happy with my images and had such a fun time with all of the people involved!